volvo s60 s80 v70 xc70 xc60 v60
Altair Club Cars Volvo S60/S80/V70/XC70/XC60/V60 (P3 Platform) Wheel Bearing Replacement

Volvo S60/S80/V70/XC70/XC60/V60 (P3 Platform) Wheel Bearing Replacement

How to replace a front wheel bearing in a Volvo S60/S80/V70/XC70/XC60/V60 (P3 Platform) Tutorial

Hello and welcome guys no don’t worry this is not the brake replacement video again in this one i’m going to change the front wheel bearing on a volvo s60 2014 p3 platform so let’s jump straight into it jack up and secure the car as usual remove the wheel and the brake assembly if you wonder how to do it you can check it out in my other video by clicking to the top

Right corner so once the brakes are off remove the wheel hub board you could have done it while the car was on the ground by removing the rear center cap and undoing the bolt that way or you can do it just as i did leave the car in the first gear if it’s a front wheel drive car and undo the board you will need a 13mm hex socket and the ratchet wrench of course you

Can use an impact as well either air or battery impact as i did if it isn’t a front wheel drive car just stick to the first method next step is to remove the track rod and ball joint also called tire rod and ball joint as well in order to do that spray some penetration fluid like wd-40 to the frets and let it sit for a while again you can use a couple different

Methods here i prefer the impact wrench again but it should just work with a regular wrench however you may want to put a 6mm allen bit into the threads to hold against the wrench by the way you will need a 21 mil hex socket or a same sized spanner now let’s remove the ball joint itself from the knuckle as you maintain i’ve got a few different techniques for that

One as well you can use a ball joint separator either a scissor type or a fork type or grab a hammer and hit it couple of times in the knuckle air to break through the taper but be careful try not to damage anything and lastly the way i did put back the knot to the threads to prevent them from damage and then place a socket over the nut to run that one as well then

Give it a few good wax with a hammer and it’s done next one is the lower control arm ball joint again spray some penetration fluid onto the threads and wait a little bit now if you are lucky as i was you will be able to remove the nut with a spanner only it is a 21 mil hex again but what if you are not then grab a 6mm allen bead put it into the thread of the ball

Joint stud however you may not be able to fit it in because the driveshaft joint is in the way so then you screw back the old hub ball place socket over it if you want to reuse it which you shouldn’t want to because it’s an aluminium bolt and it’s probably stretched already anyways give a couple wax onto the socket to break loose the drive shaft from the hub now

You can push on the drive shaft a bit and hopefully you can fit the alarm bit from here it is the same story hold against the 21 mil spanner with the alarm beat by placing a 3 8 or 10 mil spanner on it and undo the nut once we have the nut off let’s remove the ball joint from the knuckle again the methods apply as before were mentioned with the tractor and ball

Joint now i will be using a scissor type ball joint separator to get it loose you may want to put back the nut to have a bigger surface to grip on so place the ball joint separator on the wall joint by the way you will need one with a 21 mil jaw opening for this particular ball joint once it’s in place start wrenching on the board but before doing anything remove

The track rod and ball joint from its place to be able to turn knuckle you will hear a popping noise and then you will know it is free for some reason in my case it was already loose i just didn’t notice it lucky me again here comes the tricky part you have to separate the ball joint from the knuckle and at the same time remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub

My tip is to push down the control arm using the c-cam and the jack handle so you want to pick a c-clamp that has a big belly if that makes sense i mean you will be able to put a jack handle in it once it’s on the control arm so place it over the control arm and put the jack handle inside just as you’ve seen in the video now you can press down on it but i can’t

Stress it enough to be careful you don’t want it to end in your face again a two-post lift would be a huge advantage so push down on it and at the same time try to pull the knuckle towards yourself and remove the dry shaft from it once it’s done relax a bit because the exhausting part of it is just coming we have finally arrived to the main point of the job which

Is to remove the wheel bearing as you may have already noticed i like to give you options so here they are first one is to use the tool design to remove the wheel bearing itself it isn’t just a typical wheel bearing but a gen 2 wheel bearing the specialty of it is that the bearing and the hub come together at ago can be separated or to correct myself it shouldn’t

Be so in this tool case there is everything we need for the replacement to which i will come back later to explain what is what another option is to buy some mold extenders from your local hardware store i recommend at least two and place them between the knuckle and the back of the wheel hub once they are in the play start tightening them and they should separate

The hub from the knuckle however i don’t really recommend this method because it may work or may not but definitely it is the cheapest way to do it i didn’t choose this method because first of all i don’t really have enough knuckle surface where i can place the bolt extenders nor they are quite flat the last method i would consider is to remove the whole knuckle and

Place it on the press and press out the bearing that should work but it takes more time and the press obviously i couldn’t think of any other ways to do it but if you know any i highly encourage you to share them in the comments section it would be much appreciated so let’s assemble the tool by the way i have the one for the 82 mil bearing which is in some of the

Mazda’s fords and volvo’s to mention a couple there are also different sizes i believe the rug group uses this kind of bearing the most but i may be wrong on that one so back to the assembling take the two halves which have the bigger board that goes over the bearing put them together with two bolts you will need a six mil allen bead to tighten them now grab the

Spindle spray or use some lubricant on it i used wd-40 again firstly place the frost ball bearing on it then the metal plate and the big circular plate with holes in it into the four holes put the four pins and put it through the wheel bearing now from the other end you will need the smaller goldish colored plate which fits through the wheel hub hole and finally

The long nut if you are concerned about the abs sensor also called wheel speed sensor that it will be damaged then you can remove it however you don’t have to be it won’t be touched during the removal so let’s remove that bad boy place a 30 mil spanner on the end of the tool let it touch the knuckle that way it can be a one person job anyways i doubt that it would

Be a piece of cake holding against it now start ratcheting the front end for that you will need a 22 mil hex socket i recommend using some extension such a jack handle or a very long breaker bar after you heard a popping noise it should be easier to wretch it it takes a decent time to remove it so please be easy on yourself once you are done clean the wheel hub

Hole with the wire brush but be mindful of the abs sensor if you haven’t removed it in my case it wasn’t that bad so i didn’t need so much of an effort lucky me again at this point the half of the job is already behind our back so let’s put the fresh and new bearing back where it belongs in order to do that we will need the plates with a smaller bore from the tool

Case you may be thinking why i’m not giving you another options here so here is why for the reason that the bearing is together with the hub it wouldn’t be a good idea to push on the hub surface because it could damage the ball bearing part from my understanding if you will be pushing on the hub surface it would move the inner race of the bearing a little bit out

Of its position because the whole bearing assembly makes contact between the outer race of the bearing and the wheel hub hole if it makes any sense so that’s why you can’t use a regular bearing slash bushing removal tool or a press here unless you have the correct adapter plate to push on however if you know about any other methods feel free to share them in the

Comments section well now back to assembling the tool it is 90 the same as for the removal unfortunately you can’t use the frost bearing here because the spindle is not long enough but anyways it goes back easier than it comes out so place the large circular plate over the spindle put the four pins in it but use the larger goldish colored plate on the end of the

Spindle instead of this small one and finally the nut before you start tightening the things down make sure you align the bearing perfectly straight and level into its position or slightly tilted upwards because when you will be ratcheting and applying force on it it will come out of the alignment towards the bottom end of the bearing if it makes any sense don’t

Worry if you have to try it a couple of times practice makes the master so once the bearing is aligned start ratcheting on the front end of the tool again it will take a good effort and time to get it in the place you can tighten it all the way to the end because it shouldn’t go further than its place well so we are done with replacing the wheel bearing now we

Just need to put everything back together the only difference is that i used a different method pushing down the lower control arm in order to fit the lower control arm ball joint to its position so i grabbed the check handle and placed it vertically on the lower control arm and pushed down on it whilst pushing on the knuckle at the same time to get it back to

Its position where the ball joint just slides into it useful tip is to put that dry shaft into its place prior putting together the lower control arm ball joint and the wheel knuckle i still used the old ball for it once they are done you can put the truck coat and ball joint to its place and start tighten the things down but before you rush yourself into it i

Recommend you to re-thread the both ball joint nuts just to make your lives easier stop it stop it thank me later by the way the lower control arm ball joint nut is m14 by one point half size and the track rod and ball joint nut is m14 by two size make sure you don’t mix them up if they are rethreaded they should go on the ball joint start with ease what means

You shouldn’t need a six mil allen beat and the spanner to hold against it after you are finished with them you can torque down the wheel hub ball have it torqued down to 35 newton meters and another 90 degrees well now you just need to react some of the breaks i trust you that you can do it on your own as well however if you are struggling with it click the right

Corner of the screen for some advice now a little time for feedback please guys let me know in the comments section if this was an in-depth detailed video to tackle this job on your own or was it too much or still need more information on the process your comments would be much appreciated finally thank you for watching and have a great day bye

Transcribed from video
Volvo S60/S80/V70/XC70/XC60/V60 (P3 Platform) Wheel Bearing Replacement By MrNiceGuy

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