replace wheel bearing hubs mini
Altair Club Cars Replace Wheel Bearing Hubs Mini F60 Countryman 2017 – 2022 Front Rear Rumble Noise Fixed

Replace Wheel Bearing Hubs Mini F60 Countryman 2017 – 2022 Front Rear Rumble Noise Fixed

Replace Front and Rear Wheel Bearing Hubs on 2017 – 2022 Mini Cooper Countryman All4 F60 to solve common drivetrain rumble noise. Similar process for Mini Clubman F54 F55 F56 F57.

In this video we’re going to be working on a 2017 mini cooper countryman and in this case the wheel bearings are starting to fail and we can hear rumble we’re having a little trouble diagnosing exactly which bearing because of the way the noise transfers and there’s no play in any of the bearings and that makes it tricky to try to figure out which one’s bad now

As you know this new countryman they call it the f60 has more in common drive train wise with the bmw x1 than the previous generation countryman that includes the wheel bearings and if you look at the design of the new wheel bearing the old one had a splined axle it would pass through the hub and that’s how it would transfer energy to the hub is through the actual

Splines this one has a tooth surface here so you have to bolt the axle which has a similar mating tooth surface to the hub and that’s how it transfers energy to the wheel now with a failing bearing you’re going to feel the rumble before the bearing completely fails as they start to go out that’s what you experience it may sound a little bit like an input shaft

Bearing for the differential maybe the driveline carrier bearing this is an all-wheel drive car so it was a little bit tricky but we did figure out that it was one of the rears and so we’re going to get to work on that so let’s get started so before we jump straight into the repair i want you guys to hear the rumble so you could compare it to what you might be

Hearing on your vehicle it’s kind of a pulsating rhythmic rumble it also changed when i went around a corner so clue number one is the sound changes while going around a corner which is textbook wheel bearing and then when you put the car in the air and run the drivetrain if there’s no noise that’s another clue because even a failing wheel bearing doesn’t make

Much noise when there’s no weight bearing down on it but while it’s in the air we can also rule out things like the carrier bearing on the drive line and maybe the input shaft going into the differential so you’ll notice here i’ve got the heat shield pulled away so we can actually do a look listen and feel of the drive line going into the differential and i didn’t

See anything apparent here even when i put my hand on it i didn’t feel anything that was sort of a bad vibration or felt like anything was failing in there i didn’t see anything dripping we were essentially confident that we had ruled out things other than wheel bearings now what we’re going to do is we’re going to pull the caps off and while the vehicle’s on the

Ground uh these are 17 millimeter and by the way these axle bolts are stretch bolts and we’ll talk a little bit about that more later but we want the vehicle on the ground while we’re relieving the torque from these and you’re gonna be glad you have a long breaker bar we’ve got a 24 inch here it’s a fair amount of torque on these we will also get the lug nuts just

Started that way when we put it up in the air we can easily pull them off with the wrench and now we need to get the caliper off but first we’re going to take this speed sensor now this speed sensor has to come off the rears the original hubs on these would damage the speed sensor if you tried pulling them off and i’ll show you a little bit more on that later turns

Out the fronts were not the case but just pull the single bolt off if it doesn’t pull out and it probably won’t you may need to kind of move it around a little bit or use a small screwdriver to get it started just be careful with it don’t damage it and this is what it looks like it just sits next to the magnetic encoder ring on the hub measures the wheel speed so

We can go and set that aside the caliper bolts the ones i found were e14s and there’s two of them one of them was tight enough that you’ll see i had to slip a pipe on just to get it started loosening but they really weren’t that much of a problem and once you get the caliper off you can hang it out of harm’s way so it’s not hanging by the brake lines and it won’t

Damage anything so now we are ready to pull the rotor off i just use that little impact tool to loosen the rotor retainer bolt but the rotor was still kind of stuck on there a little bit so just tap it loose with a hammer and once you’ve got that out of the way you can see these hub bolts coming through and i mean that’s a lot of rust take it from me you do not

Want to try to loosen those without penetrating oil i let this sit overnight and i sprayed both the outside of the bolt and the heads of the bolts with penetrating oil be patient let it soak overnight it’s worth it and you can see they came right off fairly easily with lots of hours of penetrating oil i’ll show you a different view here of one of the bolts coming

Off and you can see the penetrating oil sort of darkens everything foreign but it really does make a difference and once you get all those hub bolts out now we just got that axle bolt it’s already loose so we’ll just spin it out of the way and you have to replace this with a new stretch bolt and you can see the old hub it’s got a little metal guard on it that’s

Why you had to remove your speed sensors it pokes through that guard let’s take a look at our new hubs these are the new rear hubs we’ll open one up it looks pretty much like the one we pulled off without that metal guard so it’s just got this uh packing guard on there to keep any debris from getting in speaking of debris you do want to clean up this axle surface

Very well there’s going to be some grit in there just from the removal process i’ve got some wheel bearing grease i’m going to use to pack around the seal on the new hub and then that will be protection enough to keep debris from getting in there so we’ll go ahead and clean all this up real well once you’ve got your new high ball greased up you’ll notice i’ve got

One of the hub bolts already coming through and the socket and the extension are already on it i can easily hold the hub with one hand while i start the bolt with the other and once you’ve got it hanging from this top bolt it’s really easy to get the other three bolts into place and these are stretch bolts stretch bolts mean you bring them to a torque setting and

Then do additional rotation in this case a quarter turn or 90 degrees so what you’ll see in the videos i will tighten all of these to a torque setting and you can check the video description for all the torque settings for this project and if the specification is for a torque plus a rotation then you have to replace the bolts because you can’t stretch any bolt

Twice but bring them all to the torque setting and then you need to go back and do an additional quarter turn on your new hub bolts and once you’ve got all those torqued down put the other stretch bolt the axle bolt into place but we’re only going to do it hand snug we couldn’t torque it down right now if we wanted to because there’s no break and this hub would

Just spin we’re going to go ahead and put a full torque on this once the vehicle’s firmly planted on all fours so now we can put our rotor on and just like we couldn’t torque the axle bolt we can’t torque this one either because the hub will just spin so in this case what we’re going to do to tighten this is we’re going to just use a couple of lug nuts and give

Ourselves some leverage it’s not a very high torque setting for this bolt but we just want to make sure we can get it tight without the hub spinning so this is a nice trick we’re ready to unhang our caliper and bolt that back on and we can put our real speed sensor back in it only goes in one way and once the sensor is tightened down we can put the wheel back

On and we have replaced both of the rear hub bearings and we can move on to replacing both of the front hub bearings but before we do let’s take a look at the old rear hubs that we pulled off and let’s listen to some barons this is the right rear that was the worst bearing this is the left and if i hold these up to the mic you might be able to hear something i

Think we’ll get a better sense if i actually put the microphone against the bearing i’m just going to hold it against the bearing while i rotate it this is the brand new one pretty quiet here’s the better of the two this was the left rear it was not as bad foreign right rear it sounds like there would be a fair amount of play in that band there was not enough

To diagnose it from jiggling the wheels grabbing the wheel and trying to get it to shake so we’ve already replaced the front right you can benefit from the learning curve on that it’s really not much different than the rear so just pull the torque off of the axle bolt while the car is on the ground and once you get the wheel off you pull the caliper off just like

Before and we’re gonna hang that out of harm’s way so it doesn’t put any stress on the brake lines and then you need to pull your rotor retainer bolt off and that’s actually a little bit easier because this hub’s not going to be able to spin because of the gearbox and we just pull the rotor off and just like the rears we got a lot of rust on those hub bolts that

Are coming through so sure enough we’re going to use penetrating oil but the access is excellent so you’ll find you can easily get to the heads of these bolts so once they’ve sat overnight with penetrating oil you can begin the removal process these bolts are a little bit bigger so you know they may take a little bit more strength to get off but they weren’t too

Bad we had one troublemaker but the rest of them came off without too much difficulty and since the axle bolt’s already off once the final bolt comes up hub comes up you can see the wheel sensor is still in place it was not in the way it did not have to be removed so we’re just gonna pack the wheel bearing grease along the seal of the new hub and make sure you

Clean up the sealed surface you want to make sure you get all the debris out of there and take your freshly greased up new hub put that into place now and i found it to be just a little simpler to screw in the axle bolt before you do the hub bolts it just holds things in place nicely so we’re just gonna get one of these screwed in by hand the access was that

Good some of the others i had to put an extension on first but it was still fairly easy to get them started and screwed into the new huh and again these are stretch bolts so you’re going to have to do a torque plus rotation and i found this little device nice this little ratchet thumb screw kind of made the job a little bit easier so again we’re going to put the

Initial torx on all four of these and then we will follow up with a 90 degree rotation so a quarter turn rotation after the torque’s back and again check the video description you will find the torques for all the bolts for this project in the video description along with some of the tools and other things you may need to get the job done so make sure you uh check

That out so we’ve got our torques on there we’re going to put the rotor back on and again this hub will allow us to tighten the rotor retainer bolt so we’ll go ahead and take care of that and we can unhang the caliper and put that back on now the caliper bolts that came off had 18 millimeter heads you may find when replacing them the bmw has decided that external

Torque heads are better so you need to be prepared for that this is an old hub bolt it’s got a little bit of rust on there but we were very glad we replaced the hub bearing because the seal had already failed and so it was just a matter of time before the bearing went out so it was a good thing we replaced it and now that we’ve got all our brakes reinstalled we

Can activate the parking brake and that’s going to allow us to start the torque process through the center bore of the wheels and remember these are stretch bolts so step one is to put the pre-rotation torque setting on all four wheels so don’t put your center caps on yet we’re not done so again as a stretch bolt it means you bring the bolt to a torque spec and

Then you have to put an additional rotation on it so we’re going to transfer to this long breaker bar now and the breaker bar is going to act like the hand on a clock okay so we’re gonna have to go from noon to three 90 degrees so position the bar to where it starts to tighten the bolt and then you’re going to mark 90 degrees on the fender trim if you don’t have

A carpenter square that’s fine this is the box the bearings came in it’s 90 degrees it’s going to line up with the same mark and it takes a fair amount of force here so i’m going to put my whole body into this get that additional 90 degrees quarter turn repeat the process for the other three wheels and then you can put your center caps on for now what we’re going

To do is we’re going to go for test drive i want to show you the difference this is what it sounded like before the repair you hear that same pulsing rumble sound and here’s the exact same stretch of roadway after the repair can’t tell you how relieving it is to get rid of that sound well this was a good repair if it helped you guys out please do give a thumbs up

And subscribe for future videos and to help out anybody else trying to do this please do share this video thanks for watching

Transcribed from video
Replace Wheel Bearing Hubs Mini F60 Countryman 2017 – 2022 Front Rear Rumble Noise Fixed By ScubaMoto

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