alfa romeo giulia qv brake bleed
Altair Club Cars Alfa Romeo Giulia QV Brake Bleeding & Brake Flush

Alfa Romeo Giulia QV Brake Bleeding & Brake Flush

Alfa Romeo Giulia QV Brake Bleeding and Brake Flush

Foreign hey what’s up guys auto finance so today’s video we’re going to be flushing and bleeding the brakes on the alfa romeo julia quadrifoglio now if you saw that quick little snippet on the intro that was when i did my stelvio after seeing all the contamination that came out of those calipers i was like you know what i got to do the julia quadrifoglio and i

Got to show you guys a quick video so i’m going to get the camera set up i’m going to show you everything we’re going to use today i’m going to walk you through it it’s a simple diy and if you guys have never done this before then watch the video if you feel confident go ahead and do it if you don’t feel confident then don’t attempt to do it because it’s safety

Of course related and like i said i’m not an alfa romeo technician but i pretty much know how to do all this stuff and i’m going to show you quick and simple how easy it is all right guys so i’m just going to show you guys what we’re working with today so for the alpha male you’re going to need 11 millimeter flare wrench and i have an 11 millimeter on a quarter

Inch drive just to break them loose these are paint touch-up dabs i’m going to show you this in the video we got a clean towel we have our ate type 200 brake fluid and this is the adapter this is the european adapter that i use for ferrari and alfa romeo’s and a bunch of other cars you can see this is why i recommend picking this up is because you could unscrew

It without having this hose kink up while you’re using it we have here this is a motive brake bleed bottle so we’re going to pretty much be taking the fluid out of here and we’re going to recycle it then we’re going to charge the uh motive for every single caliper that we do now this is what i want to show you guys this is what’s important this is a standard

Motive power bleeder this gauge only goes up to 30 psi now when i do a lot of the newer cars i modified it i changed the gauge this is a quarter inch npt threaded gauge this gauge goes up to 160. this container definitely can handle over 100 psi just it’s so strong and then over here i just drilled a hole and i popped a schrader valve in it so that’s going to be

A little tip on how you could take a motor power bleeder and do a lot of the bleeding and flushing on any of the modern new cars unless you don’t have the diagnostic tool to open and close the spool valve in the abs system so we’re going to be pumping up the system per caliper at 40 psi that seems to be working well and we’re just going to go every single wheel

We’re going to go we’re going to check the pressure we’re going to charge it with the air compressor and we’re going to start the video right now you’re going to want to wear gloves when you’re working with any kind of brake fluid just because it is corrosive and you’re also going to want to make sure your motor power bleed is perfectly cleaned out i clean

It out every time i use it with some denatured alcohol so we’re going to put most likely two containers in here i have i have like a case of 24 of these so i don’t have any issues of uh running out of fluid while i do this another thing too my motor power bleeder has a quick disconnect this just makes it so much easier and i’m going to show you guys when we

Connected to the car you just connect it like that and you disconnect it you can leave this on the car you can clean this up and then take that off last and top off your fluid so we’re going to get started right now by connecting it to the master cylinder all right guys we’re over at the intelligent braking system master cylinder this is where the fluid goes

We’re going to take the cap off we’re going to put that usually over there and that’s it see how easy it is to just screw it on we’re going to do a pressure test and we’re going to go through the bleed process right now all right guys before we get started another little tip i want to show you use a little wd-40 to spray around every bleeder screw before you

Get started because this is an aluminum caliper these are steel fittings car’s been driven for four years corrosion anything like that it could seize up it’s just a little bit of a preventative tip just to spray this with a little wd-40 very simple don’t go crazy just like that all right guys we’re all set up so we got the motor filled it’s all connected to

The quick disconnect i have a little bit of a hook off the retainer just to keep the hose elevated so we don’t get any air bubbles so we’re just going to charge it up now to 40 psi boom you can see as soon as i charge it up the fluid went from the reservoir straight into the tube so what’s going to happen is as we let out pressure from each caliper it’s going

To fill the master cylinder to eliminate air or running it dry causing more of an issue where you got to take it off the car and bench bleeder which i don’t even know how to do in this car so my theory the way i always believe brakes we’re going to start with the rear passenger the driver’s side rear the passenger front and then we’re going to finish it with the

Driver’s side front that’s just the way i do it it’s a sequence of going there there there and there so just like a criss-cross pattern uh based on the length and distance from the actual master cylinder so we’re gonna go over to the passenger rear wheel and get started right now all right guys so we’re over at the first rear caliper this is the passenger side

Rear so we’re gonna use the 11 millimeter just pop open your boots over here these are your little protective boots and like i said we already sprayed them with wd-40 a little while ago and we just want to make sure that it’ll come loose with the 11 millimeter flare wrench and we’re gonna put it over here so you can see it there in the camera let me see if i

Get closer you see the fluid that’s coming out and we’re going to fill this bottle up so the way i’m going to do this being that i’m not just bleeding it i want to flush all the original fluid out of the car i’m going to fill this bottle up about halfway with each caliper so we have an inboard bleeder screw and an outboard bleeder screw another little tip that

I’ll share with you guys uh i’ve just got into this habit always installing big brake kits that are brand new out of the box they have crossover lines so the line the fluid is going to cross over on this particular caliper it’s got a crossover tube on the bottom so i just take a soft rubber mallet and i’ll just tap the caliper this will just help if there’s any

Trapped air pockets in the caliper itself it’s as far as the billet housing or the crossover tube you can see there we’re just filling it up nothing too exciting so when i’m done with this we’re going to tighten it up and i’m going to show you the next step as we move along all right guys so i just did the inboard and i finished that up so i went and i recharged

The motor power bleeder up to 40 it dropped down to 28. so we’re just going to crack this bleeder open okay a lot of air bubbles and a lot of contamination right there i could see it in a line so you can see here see what’s going on so we’re pressurizing it from the front the whole hydraulic system so we have fluid in the calipers and in the small brake lines

We’re not going to be pulling out gallons of fluid so we want to push everything through all the lines in the car the crossover lines the calipers everything to get all the contamination all the old fluid out so we have fresh fluid in there so we’re still gonna give a little bit of a tap okay so we’re actually like almost 75 percent filled on this so what

I’m gonna do i’m gonna close the bleeder valve right now all right we’re gonna close it up i am going to transfer this into one of the empty containers we’re gonna start over and we’re gonna finish this and i’m gonna show you the final steps as far as when you’re done bleeding we’re going to clean everything up including inside the bleed valve but i want to make

Sure every little piece of old brake fluid through the volume and displacement is just flushed completely out of the calipers the master cylinder and all of the brake lines so we’re looking pretty good here so we’re going to tighten that up and what i usually do clean out the draw tube this is why i use these now inside here you’re going to get brake fluid so

I’m going to zoom in on the camera just so you guys can see it watch okay do you see all the fluid that just came out by sticking that in there this just makes sense it’s the perfect size it’s tapered and you’re going to guarantee you’re going to get any of that brake fluid that’s kind of stuck in there out because sometimes you could be losing these rubber

Boots and you go wash the car and if this drips onto the wheel barrel or the caliper and it sits there and it’s not cleaned it’s going to destroy and remove the paint so that’s just a little tip i wanted to show you is just use the paint touch up easy dabbers all right so we got that clean now we’re just going to take some of our soap and water and solution and

Clean up all around it now we’re pretty much going to move on to the next caliper all right guys we’re at the home stretch this is the last caliper it’s the driver side front so we’re going to charge it up the motor power bleeder to 40 pounds boom so fyi i didn’t show it in the video but the front caliper on the passenger side gave me a little bit of an issue

One of the bleeder valves was completely seized up and all corroded there was a ton of rust that came out of the outboard bleeder valve so i have to order some new ones and i will probably get that done next week and i’m probably going to replace all the bleeders on all calipers being that i saw that even though only one of them was jammed up so far all right

This one’s good this one’s flowing you can see it there it’s a lot of little corrosion that i see as i crack open the bleeder and that’s what we want to get out of the system we want to get any water or contamination corrosion so the brake fluid itself is very corrosive so inside the brake lines there’s most likely some coating and like you know four years old

Things are starting to get broken down and that’s why it’s definitely smart to do this now and i can’t believe i waited so long but at least it’s getting done and i’m doing a video for you guys so if you guys want to do it yourselves on your cars you could uh knock it out pretty easily in about an hour takes about an hour it’s actually more time to set the car

Up and do filming and also time the filming sessions with all the ambient noise and what’s going on you know between my neighbors and everything else so other than that the sun went down i’m just gonna pull this back okay so i do it a few times so far we took two liters of fluid through the system as far as what we flushed and that’s kind of what i want so

It’s gonna be probably about two and a half to three just because like i said i don’t want to be stingy i want to get all the corrosion and all the old fluid out of this car so you’re going to get better pedal feel on a conventional car as far as this i don’t really know because this is an intelligent braking system brake by wire but the brakes should feel a

Hell of a lot better by getting all that displaced corrosion out of the lines okay so when you do it you want to have some you want to have the tube inserted in some fresh fluid you don’t want to have it like this bottle completely empty fyi it just seems to work a lot better doing it that way that i found okay so we’re gonna this container is almost full

So we’re going to go empty this out and we’re going to come right back and i only emptied about half of it out so we’re going to crack it open one more time i’m a little bit ocd when it comes to this stuff but i’m not really concerned about wasting brake fluid i just want to get the best possible bleed uh as i can whenever i do a brake system whether it’s

A new brake kit or a flush i’ll do it two three four times just to make it perfect even for a clutch system and the extra time goes a long way when you want to do it you know perfectly and you don’t have any issues down the road with noises and uh pistons getting stuck okay so we’re good there so we’re going to put this to the side we’re going to get the easy

Dabber take the easy dabber get all that fluid that’s stuck inside the bleeder out purge it out just like that clean solution parts cleaning brush clean microfiber towel dry everything up and move over to the next bleeder all right so we’re still at about 40 psi and this is it this is the final bleeder to crack open and flush out yeah look at the wow there’s

A ton of corrosion and dirt that’s in there so i don’t know if the camera is going to pick it up so i’m going to zoom in a little bit further we’ll keep it like right there see if you guys can capture anything if you played a video back and you kind of zoom in if you’re watching it on a big monitor but yeah that’s uh so far everything went smoothly except the

Outboard bleeder on the front passenger side this was seized there was no fluid coming out so i had to clean it all out um pull the bleeder out completely let it bleed out from around the neck and then put it back in and then bleed it out so we’re getting a good bleed right here okay close it up wow look at that can you guys see this all this particular matter

Is right here so like like i showed you in the intro to video when i did my stelvio this really concerns me that all of this debris could be inside the brake caliper and the brake lines so that’s why i’m doing this i don’t know let me see if you guys could see this let me get the camera closer you see it right there guys look at all that junk that’s inside the

Line that came out so that’s just a little bit of a close-up view so you guys could get a better idea of why this is imperative to do and for guys that are going to the track you’re probably going to want to do this very frequently or before every track session because you’re going to overheat the fluid most likely especially with this car look at that every

Time i crack it open there’s more debris coming out so i’m going to continue doing this for a couple of minutes to make sure that is crystal clear i don’t want to have any debris coming out of that line when i crack it open so i’ll be back in a little bit all right guys so we’re finally finished this took 12 times to get this bleeder to spit out clean fluid so

I’m just going to clean up and then we’re going to disconnect the mode of power bleeder i’ll show you that and we’ll conclude the rest of this video all right guys we’re all done so we’re going to release the air out of the motive slowly you’re going to see the fluid is going to start to come back into the reservoir that’s what you want you want to give it a

Couple of minutes to do that and the quick disconnect is great so you can disconnect it if there’s anything in the line we’re just going to pull it off and if we have to top off the master cylinder i’m going to do that with a syringe so that’s it we’re pretty much good to go okay got that there so here we go okay look no mess no drips we take the bleeder put it

To the side all right guys so got the motive disconnected you can see it’s a little bit overfilled so i’m just going to take a syringe and suck some of that fluid out so about right there okay put that to the bench put the reservoir cap on now we’re going to clean up all our tools and put the wheels back on the car and get it down on the ground and we’re pretty

Much finished all right guys we’re all finished with the full flush and bleed on the alfa mayo julie quadrifoglio very very easy process a couple of tips i just want to let you guys know if you’re going to do this yourself if you notice any corrosion on your bleeder screws i would suggest you order new ones ahead of time just in case i ran into an issue on the

Passenger side front where it was seized up a lot of rust and corrosion you saw in the video all the junk that came out of the braking system inside the calipers inside the brake line so it definitely is better to remove the fluid after a couple years start fresh we got all new fluid in the car also recommend getting a power bleeder these things are inexpensive

And cheap make sure if you’re going to do anything on a newer car and you don’t have the diagnostic tool to open and close the abs system just change your gauge install a schrader valve very very easy to use get the billet adapter also get the quick disconnects like i showed you these things are great it makes it a lot easier 11 millimeter line wrench a little

Bit of a syringe to suck out the fluid at the end reservoir to catch all your fluid rubber mallet if you guys want to do it you don’t have to do it but i just do it out of habit and also the touch-up paint easy dabbers like i showed you to clean out all the fluid that sits inside the brake bleeders so that’s it hope you guys got some tips and tricks if you have

Any questions you could comment below or contact me direct thanks for watching and stay tuned for the next video foreign so you

Transcribed from video
Alfa Romeo Giulia QV Brake Bleeding & Brake Flush By Auto Fanatic

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